Causes
- Calcium or other nutritional deficiency
- Obesity
- Excessively large or misshapen egg
- Oviduct infection
- Premature layer (hen began laying eggs before her body was fully mature)
- Egg retention due to lack of sufficient nesting areas
An overview of a hen's reproductive system is important in order to know where an egg may be stuck.*
A hen's uterus (aka: shell gland) is the muscle responsible for
squeezing the egg out of the vent. Since muscles require calcium to
contract properly, if a hen has a calcium deficiency, the egg can get
stuck in the uterus.
Possible Symptoms
- Loss of appetite
- Disinterest in drinking
- Shaky wings
- Walking like a penguin
- Abdominal straining
- Frequent, uncharacteristic sitting
- Passing wet droppings or none at all (egg interferes with normal defecation)
- Droopy/depressed/pale comb and wattles
- Infection
- Prolapsed uterus
- Damage to oviduct
- Bleeding
- Death
Prevention
- Avoid supplemental lighting with young pullets to avoid premature egg-laying
- Feed layer ration, which is carefully formulated to provide balanced nutrition to laying hens
- Make available oyster shell (or another calcium source) free-choice (never add to the feed)
- Avoid excess treats that can interfere with balanced nutrition in layer ration
- Avoid treats in the summer heat when feed intake is reduced
Treatment
Calcium (injection, liquid or via vitamins & electrolyte solution)
Warm bath
Apply KY jelly
Massage
To assess whether a hen is egg-bound at home, gently feel on either side
of her vent with one hand (think: squeezing the cheeks of a cute kid).
If an egg is felt, giving the hen calcium is the first course of action.
Absent liquid calcium,
vitamins and electrolytes in the water contain calcium and can help.
Even if she's not interested in drinking, try to get some into her with a
dropper or syringe carefully. If she is too weak to drink, don't try
it. The calcium may be enough to get her to pass the egg on her own
within a half hour or so.
Put the hen in a tub of warm water for 15-20 minutes, which will hydrate her vent and relax her, making it easier to pass the egg.
Put the hen in a tub of warm water for 15-20 minutes, which will hydrate her vent and relax her, making it easier to pass the egg.
After a warm bath, some KY jelly applied to the vent can also help
hydrate the cloaca to allow for ease of passage when the egg gets to
that point (don’t use olive oil, as it can become rancid). Massage the
area around the egg gently towards the vent, being careful not to break
the eggshell.
At this point, put her in a crate in a darkened, quiet room. If a truly
egg-bound hen does not pass the egg within an hour of these measures,
the egg may need to be manually removed, which can be dangerous but is
possible but proceed at your own risk.
"If she still hasn't expelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.
"First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside dwn). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.
Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together (although broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days."
"If she still hasn't expelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.
"First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside dwn). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.
Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together (although broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days."
Stella was put to sleep due to severe egg-binding. She did not exhibit the typical symptoms outlined above, the only clues that she had a problem at all were a change in droppings, activity level and a hard abdomen. |
Additional reading and resources:
http://www.avianweb.com/Prolapse.htm
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